Hiking and Backpacking in France
French Long-distance, Regional, and Local HIking Trails
Feb 21, 2009
France boasts one of the most extensive and varied network of long-distance hiking trails in Europe. Terrain ranges from Alsatian vineyards to Basque fishing villages, from high Alps to Normandy beaches, from the wild and precipitous Pyrenees to the island of Corsica. In addition, French trails wind through a rich combination of cities, villages, all imbued with history, art, and culture.
The French hiking system has three categories of trails (called randonee in French). The grandes randonees (GR) are long-distance trails marked with red and white paint blazes. The regional randonees de pays are marked in red and yellow. Local trails (called either promenades or randonees) are marked in yellow. Trails are identified by number. A few neighboring countries have adopted the French blazing and numbering system for some of their routes, especialy those that cross international borders.
The interlinking network includes 60,000 kilometers (37,200 miles) of long-distance paths and another 80,000 kilometers (49,600 miles) of regional and local paths.
Leading French Grandes Randonees: Major Hiking Trails in France
- The 1,600-mile GR-5 passes through Holland, Belgium, Luxembourg, France, Switzerland, and a tiny bit of Italy. In France, its roams from the Mediterranean Coast to the Alps to the rolling hills of Alsace and Lorrain.
- The 900-kilomter (558-mile) GR-10 follows the Pyrenees on the French side of the Franco-Spanish border. A Spanish counterpart, the GR-11, runs on the southern side. There is also a “High Route of the Pyrenees,” which has a more rugged wilderness character. The three Pyrenees paths sometimes interconnect, giving hikers a choice of routes.
- The GR 21 follows the mountainous spine of the island of Corsica. It is considered both one of the most beautiful and one of the most difficult of the French trails.
Tips for Backpacking on France’s Trekking Route and Long-Distance Trails
North American backpackers will find trekking in France a very different experience. Most European land has been affected by centuries of human use, starting with Roman roads and ending with super-highways. In between, other uses are evident: logging, grazing, farming, roads, industry, and even war. In addition, European trails often seem overwhelmingly crowded to North Americans: hiking is popular, and parklands are smaller.
- Where to stay: French hikers sometime camp in tents (called “camping sauvage” or “wild camping”). But carrying camping gear isn’t always necessary. Towns are spaced closely, making it possible to stay in small hotels or hostels. The mountains have a system of huts (called “refuges”). Tents can be pitched, and (sometimes) trailers rented in developed recreation areas and public campgrounds.
- Food: French food is wonderful, whether purchased in a grocery and eaten on the trail, or enjoyed in a restaurant. Refuges serve multi-course family-style meals, and gites d'etap (hostels for hikers) provide cooking facilities. A hiker’s appetite responds well to Basque seafood, Provencal cassoulet, and Alsatian choucroute, or simply a picnic of sausage, cheese, fruit, and bread.
- Maps and Guidebooks: A series of guidebooks and maps (called “topoguides”) is published by the FFRP (Federation Francais des Randonee Pedestres, or French Federation of Walking Trails). They are available from any French outfitting shop. Each major GR has its own series of topoguides; some are available in English. French topographical maps are available at outfitters: Series Verte (green series) contains maps at the scale of 1:50,0000; Series Bleu (series blue) is 1:25,000.
Seeing a country on foot is perhaps the best way to experience its landscape, meet the people, enjoy the food, and savor it all slowly. France’s trail system offers a way to do all of that, in a country with varied terrain, fascinating history, and great cuisine.
More resources on Hiking in Europe.
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